Wazwan
—page index 85 page 86—
FOOD HISTORY
84
The people of Kashmir always had a
distinctive history and myth, language
and literature, art and architecture,
culture and tradition.
for poets, artists and dreamers,
and for less gifted, more ordinary
mortals as well. Surrounded by three
Himalayan ranges â the Karakoram,
the Zanskar and the Pir Panjal â
and majestic snow-covered peaks,
its
idyllic
panoramic
splendour
draws people from the world over
to the region. Every season brings
new vistas â spring, when the air is
heady with the fragrance of a million
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and creepers; summer and autumn,
with their vivid colours and mellow
fruitfulness; and winter, magically
painting the landscape in pristine
shades of white.
Legend has it that the valley of
Kashmir was once a large lake. In it
lived a demon who was killed after
the lake was drained with the help of
Brahmaâs grandson, Kashyap, and the
Goddess Parvati. Parvati is supposed
to have killed the demon by dropping
a mountain on him. This legendary
mountain is believed to be Takht-i-
Sulaiman â also called Shankaracharya
hill â and forms the familiar backdrop
to the city of Srinagar.
History and myth, language and
literature, art and architecture, culture
and tradition are distinctive to the
people of Kashmir, but these aspects
are also closely intertwined with and
integral to the story of the Indian
subcontinent. It was in this valley
that Buddhism reached its zenith,
Hinduism extended its frontiers into
Shaivism and Shaktism, and Islam
acquired a new meaning through
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been a melting pot of a multifaceted,
Dhaniwal Korma:
a mild aromatic
korma that is
garnished with a
large quantity of
fresh coriander.
—page index 86 page 87—
The Taj Magazine
85
Kashmir has been a melting pot of a
multifaceted, unique and harmonious
cultural blend. Taken together, it has
been called kashmiriyat.
unique and harmonious cultural
blend. Its versatile cultural forms,
fairs and festivals, rites and rituals,
seers and sagas, cuisine and language,
all with roots embedded in antiquity,
speak of unity in diversity and an
unparalleled cultural cohesion called
kashmiriyat.
The scenic beauty of Kashmir is
only rivaled by its cuisine, which offers
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both vegetarian and non-vegetarian
delicacies. Perhaps nowhere else in
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and elaborate, offerings that pamper
the taste buds of the most fastidious
gourmands. It is born of the marriage
of the rich cultural heritage of the
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from Hindu, Buddhist and Afghan to
Mughal, Sikh and British. Kashmiri
cuisine is of two distinct types:
wazwaan, the food of the Muslims,
and butta, or the Pandit fare. Both
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to cook mouth-watering delicacies
that have much in common. What is
evident is that both have been greatly
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cooking of the people who inhabited
the area. The main difference is that
the Pandits do not use onions and
garlic, while Muslims incorporate
both in good measure.
Both Pandit and Muslim cuisine
relies
totally
on
local
produce.
Kashmiris are insatiable meat eaters
and have developed a number of
classical dishes based on mutton,
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Rista: cardamom-
infused meat balls,
pounded by a wooden
mallet, cooked
with saffron, mawal
cockscomb Ã
ower,
fragrant spices and
rich lamb stock.
—page index 87 page 88—
FOOD HISTORY
86
The wazwaan is an elaborate and
sumptuous ritual, a feast served to an
honoured guest. Not just a meal, it is a
veritable ceremony.
Central Asia on Kashmir, its cuisine
uses turmeric, dried ginger, fennel,
cloves, cardamom and to top it all
the much-prized saffron which grows
here in abundance. Nuts, dry fruits
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their place in the local cuisine.
According
to
popular
belief,
when Timur invaded India in the
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calligraphers, architects and cooks
from Samarkand, who settled in the
valley of Kashmir. The descendants of
these cooks, the wazas, are considered
to be the master chefs of Kashmir.
Waan in Kashmir means âshopâ. A
wazwaan is literally, therefore, a cook
shop or restaurant.
In practice, however, the wazwaan
is an elaborate and sumptuous ritual,
a feast served to an honoured guest.
This lavish hospitality must be fully
appreciated by the guest, for it is not
just a meal, but also a ceremony. Days
of planning and hours of cooking
go into the preparation and serving
of a wazwaan. Normally restricted to
special occasions and celebrations
at home, the wazwaan experience
Ghushtaba: the dish that
signals the end of the
wazwaan service. Hand
pounded boneless lamb
l balls Ã
avoured with
green cardamom seeds,
cooked in mild stock-
based yoghurt gravy with
green cardamom, fennel
and dry ginger powder.
—page index 88 page 89—
The Taj Magazine
87
The wazasâ recipes are secret, locked
away in their heads, passed on from
generation to generation by word of
mouth and example.
begins with table settings for groups
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the meal served on a large metal
plate called a trami. It begins with
the ritual washing of hands in a
basin called a tash-t-nari, which is
taken around by attendants to allow
each diner to wash their hands with
warm water. Then the tramis arrive,
each heaped with Kashmiri rice,
accompanied by seekh kababs, methi
maaz, tabakh maaz, waze kokur â this
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variety of chutnies, like dodh al, doon
chetin, zirish chetin, gand chetin are
served separately in small earthen
pots. Choice dishes are presented,
one after the other, each made with
fresh local produce. The animals
used are slaughtered ceremonially
and expertly according to Muslim
custom, and the waza (chief cook)
personally supervises the preparation
of each dish that emerges from his
kitchen. Every ingredient for the
meal is handpicked and much effort
ensures that each dish is a culinary
masterpiece.
The
wazasâ
recipes
are secret, locked away in their
heads, passed on from generation
Rogan Josh: the original
dish from the valley.
Mixed cuts of lamb
cooked with Kashmiri
red chilis, mawal
cockscomb Ã
ower,
saffron, turmeric, garlic
and green cardamom
Ãnished with a sprinkle
of black pepper.
—page index 91 page 92—
FOOD HISTORY
90
Marchwagan Korma:
marchwagan means
red chillis in the
Kashmiri language.
This red hot Ãery
korma is a Ãne
example of using
fragrant spices and
garlic to make a
wonderful dish to be
accompanied with
local Kashmiri rice.