Wazwan

—page index 85 page 86— FOOD HISTORY 84 The people of Kashmir always had a distinctive history and myth, language and literature, art and architecture, culture and tradition. for poets, artists and dreamers, and for less gifted, more ordinary mortals as well. Surrounded by three Himalayan ranges – the Karakoram, the Zanskar and the Pir Panjal – and majestic snow-covered peaks, its idyllic panoramic splendour draws people from the world over to the region. Every season brings new vistas – spring, when the air is heady with the fragrance of a million ÂS[IVW FPSWWSQMRK SR XVIIW WLVYFW and creepers; summer and autumn, with their vivid colours and mellow fruitfulness; and winter, magically painting the landscape in pristine shades of white. Legend has it that the valley of Kashmir was once a large lake. In it lived a demon who was killed after the lake was drained with the help of Brahma’s grandson, Kashyap, and the Goddess Parvati. Parvati is supposed to have killed the demon by dropping a mountain on him. This legendary mountain is believed to be Takht-i- Sulaiman – also called Shankaracharya hill – and forms the familiar backdrop to the city of Srinagar. History and myth, language and literature, art and architecture, culture and tradition are distinctive to the people of Kashmir, but these aspects are also closely intertwined with and integral to the story of the Indian subcontinent. It was in this valley that Buddhism reached its zenith, Hinduism extended its frontiers into Shaivism and Shaktism, and Islam acquired a new meaning through XLI TVEGXMGI SJ 7YÁWQ /EWLQMV LEW been a melting pot of a multifaceted, Dhaniwal Korma: a mild aromatic korma that is garnished with a large quantity of fresh coriander. —page index 86 page 87— The Taj Magazine 85 Kashmir has been a melting pot of a multifaceted, unique and harmonious cultural blend. Taken together, it has been called kashmiriyat. unique and harmonious cultural blend. Its versatile cultural forms, fairs and festivals, rites and rituals, seers and sagas, cuisine and language, all with roots embedded in antiquity, speak of unity in diversity and an unparalleled cultural cohesion called kashmiriyat. The scenic beauty of Kashmir is only rivaled by its cuisine, which offers ERMRÁRMXIERHWYQTXYSYWZEVMIX]SJ both vegetarian and non-vegetarian delicacies. Perhaps nowhere else in -RHME GER SRI ÁRH JSSH EW YRMUYI and elaborate, offerings that pamper the taste buds of the most fastidious gourmands. It is born of the marriage of the rich cultural heritage of the PERH ERH HMZIVWI MRÂYIRGIW SR MX from Hindu, Buddhist and Afghan to Mughal, Sikh and British. Kashmiri cuisine is of two distinct types: wazwaan, the food of the Muslims, and butta, or the Pandit fare. Both WLEVIEPSZISJPEQFYWMRKE[SSHÁVI to cook mouth-watering delicacies that have much in common. What is evident is that both have been greatly MRÂYIRGIH F] XLI ZEVMSYW WX]PIW SJ cooking of the people who inhabited the area. The main difference is that the Pandits do not use onions and garlic, while Muslims incorporate both in good measure. Both Pandit and Muslim cuisine relies totally on local produce. Kashmiris are insatiable meat eaters and have developed a number of classical dishes based on mutton, ÁWLERHGLMGOIR+MZIRXLII\XIRWMZI MRÂYIRGI SJ%JKLERMWXER 4IVWME ERH Rista: cardamom- infused meat balls, pounded by a wooden mallet, cooked with saffron, mawal cockscomb Åower, fragrant spices and rich lamb stock. —page index 87 page 88— FOOD HISTORY 86 The wazwaan is an elaborate and sumptuous ritual, a feast served to an honoured guest. Not just a meal, it is a veritable ceremony. Central Asia on Kashmir, its cuisine uses turmeric, dried ginger, fennel, cloves, cardamom and to top it all the much-prized saffron which grows here in abundance. Nuts, dry fruits ERH WSQI PIEJ] ZIKIXEFPIW EPWS ÁRH their place in the local cuisine. According to popular belief, when Timur invaded India in the ăXL GIRXYV] LI FVSYKLX [MXL LMQ  WOMPPIH [SSHGEVZIVW [IEZIVW calligraphers, architects and cooks from Samarkand, who settled in the valley of Kashmir. The descendants of these cooks, the wazas, are considered to be the master chefs of Kashmir. Waan in Kashmir means ‘shop’. A wazwaan is literally, therefore, a cook shop or restaurant. In practice, however, the wazwaan is an elaborate and sumptuous ritual, a feast served to an honoured guest. This lavish hospitality must be fully appreciated by the guest, for it is not just a meal, but also a ceremony. Days of planning and hours of cooking go into the preparation and serving of a wazwaan. Normally restricted to special occasions and celebrations at home, the wazwaan experience Ghushtaba: the dish that signals the end of the wazwaan service. Hand pounded boneless lamb l balls Åavoured with green cardamom seeds, cooked in mild stock- based yoghurt gravy with green cardamom, fennel and dry ginger powder. —page index 88 page 89— The Taj Magazine 87 The wazas’ recipes are secret, locked away in their heads, passed on from generation to generation by word of mouth and example. begins with table settings for groups SJ JSYV WIEXIH SR XLI ÂSSV XS WLEVI the meal served on a large metal plate called a trami. It begins with the ritual washing of hands in a basin called a tash-t-nari, which is taken around by attendants to allow each diner to wash their hands with warm water. Then the tramis arrive, each heaped with Kashmiri rice, accompanied by seekh kababs, methi maaz, tabakh maaz, waze kokur – this MWNYWXXLIÁVWXGSYVWI=SKYVXERHE variety of chutnies, like dodh al, doon chetin, zirish chetin, gand chetin are served separately in small earthen pots. Choice dishes are presented, one after the other, each made with fresh local produce. The animals used are slaughtered ceremonially and expertly according to Muslim custom, and the waza (chief cook) personally supervises the preparation of each dish that emerges from his kitchen. Every ingredient for the meal is handpicked and much effort ensures that each dish is a culinary masterpiece. The wazas’ recipes are secret, locked away in their heads, passed on from generation Rogan Josh: the original dish from the valley. Mixed cuts of lamb cooked with Kashmiri red chilis, mawal cockscomb Åower, saffron, turmeric, garlic and green cardamom Änished with a sprinkle of black pepper. —page index 91 page 92— FOOD HISTORY 90 Marchwagan Korma: marchwagan means red chillis in the Kashmiri language. This red hot Äery korma is a Äne example of using fragrant spices and garlic to make a wonderful dish to be accompanied with local Kashmiri rice.